Design Type of Conservatories

A conservatory or greenhouse as it is generally called, is a glass and metal structure traditionally found in the garden of a large house, but can also be built as an extension to the main structure of the house. The traditional nineteenth century conservatories were large greenhouses used for growing tender and rare plants, and sometimes for birds and rare animals.

Small garden conservatories became popular in the second half of the twentieth century, as greenhouses, for conserving plants, and for recreational purposes, as a solarium or sunroom.

Conservatories are also often used as an extra room rather than for horticulture. Most modern conservatories are small, due to space constraints, and can be made of PVC, uPVC, PVCu, wood, composites and glass, and are added to houses and gardens for home improvement purposes, and recreation or leisure.

Conservatories can be built in different shapes, styles, and sizes and building or adding a conservatory to your home is a relatively simple way to increase the habitable space in your home. You can either build your own conservatory with a DIY kit or hire someone to custom build it for you. Some of the different styles are as follows:

Gable Front Conservatory

The gable conservatory is a light and modern conservatory that brings your garden into your home. A Gable Front Conservatory is recognizable from its rectangular floor plan and triangular frontage. A major feature of this style is that the front elevation windows extend to meet the apex of the roof. This helps to maximize the feeling of light and space and create a feeling of great height within the conservatory.

P Shape Conservatory

A P Shaped conservatory refers to the floor plan of the conservatory in which the vertical line of the P will usually be a lean to design structure attached to the property, while the semi circle of the P could be a Victorian or Edwardian design in harmony with the lean to part of the conservatory. Bespoke conservatories, such as a P Shape offer increased flexibility in design and increased usability.

Victorian Conservatory

The Victorian is the most popular style of conservatory, thanks to its impressive versatility and its ability to complement most types of property. It can be distinguished by its steeply pitched roof and its use of ornate detailing along the roof s center apex (called the ridge). Victorian conservatories have 3 or 5 facets, these are the angles of the conservatory that give it a curved appearance and provide maximum space.

Edwardian Conservatory

An Edwardian (also referred to as Georgian) style of conservatory is similar to a Victorian. The main difference being a rectangular floor plan which maximizes the use of internal space.

Edwardian conservatories are more understated in design and therefore detract less from the visual impact of the main property.

If you need more space and do not want the hassle of moving to a another house with some greenery around, then adding a conservatory to your home could be a perfect and cost effective solution. A conservatory will provide an elegant addition to your home and will become the center of summer activity.


Source: Introduction Of Conservatory

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Design Type of Conservatories

House Painting Tips: Furniture Painting Ideas

Some people don’t have any ideas about painting, especially when it comes to their furniture. If you want to get good furniture painting ideas, then read on.

You can paint your furniture anyway you like; you can paint it in white, in strips, or even paint it with the same color as the wall. As long as you’re comfortable with the color of the paint, then proceed with your painting project. Here are great wood furniture painting ideas:

  1. For best wood furniture painting results, the proper temperature should be maintained in the room. If you stripped your wood furniture, make sure that you apply an acrylic primer before applying any oil-based gloss, eggshell, or any color of acrylic paint.
  2. Paint your furniture in a shade that is in contrast with the wall’s color. This way, you can define the furniture and the wall. You should also consider where the furniture is located. If you want, you can paint the furniture found in your bedroom with the color that suits your personal style; while the furniture found in other parts of the house can be painted in other subtle colors.
  3. Some people prefer eggshell finish because the gloss finish can have a deadening effect. While you’re painting, always do it in small sections. Lap marks can be avoided if you keep wet edges.
  4. If you want, you can also incorporate effects like broken color into your wood furniture. It is highly recommended that paints which are oil-based are best for wood furniture.
  5. To add more color to your wood furniture, you can stain it because this allows the furniture’s natural grain patterns to show through.
  6. After staining your furniture, you can apply varnish so that the furniture can have a tough coat. Varnishes are available in satin and high gloss finishes.
  7. If you have leftover paints, combine those that have identical color in one can and then close it tightly. Keep it for later use.
Painting your wood furniture is a great idea to maintain its newness and to preserve its beautiful appearance. So if you have pieces of wood furniture at home, don’t forget these cool furniture painting ideas.

To learn more interior painting ideas, visit my house painting tips site.

Resource: 7 Wood Furniture Painting Ideas

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DIY Tips to Make Room Divider

A room divider in a theme that compliments your décor can add a unique look to the corner of your room while doubling as a screen to hide a messy area or provide extra storage in the back. A decent room divider can be quite costly, but if you consider yourself to be handy with tools, then you might be able to save a bundle while making a nice custom accent piece for your room.

When deciding on making a room divider, you must first pick out which kind you want to make. There’s 3 basic types of dividers – the folding screen, the flat panel and the hanging curtain.

The folding screen style of room divider typically has 3 or 4 panels, but you can build it with as many as you want. It stands on it’s own when the panels are set at slight angles. To build this type of room divider, you simply make panel frames out of wood – you can build them to any size that suits. Then add the inside panels – insides can be glass, fabric, stained wood, painted wood or anything else that suits your fancy! Finally, assemble each panel to the other with hinges so that each piece folds against the other.

The room divider that is one panel and has feet that hold it up is the easiest to build. Just build the panel frame from wood and put whatever material you want in the middle. Then add some feet on the bottom to hold it up. You may be able to get pre-made feet for it or you can simply build them yourself. Make sure the feet are long enough so that the divider is sturdy when standing.

If you want to build a fabric or beaded divider, you will have to use something to suspend it from the ceiling. A track is nice because then you can slide the divider back if you want to expose the sections of the room. Something like a curtain rod could work, if you can rig something up that doesn’t look strange. Then simply add the curtain or bead panel. You can even use a store bought curtain or make one yourself.

Lee Dobbins writes for decorating and pet related web sites. Visit RoomDividerDecor.com to find out how you can add a room divider to your décor.

Source: How To Make A Room Divider

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DIY Doors Tips: PVC French Doors

Most of us take a great deal of time to decorate and furnish our homes in a style that reflects our tastes and personalities. As design ideas and trends change there is one design factor that has remained constant and that is the need for natural light. One way to gain natural light is to install Patio or French doors.

Installing French doors can not only improve the value and visual aesthetics of your home but they can also improve access to gardens, courtyards or patio areas. During the summer months French doors enable you to improve the ventilation and air flow in your home as well as providing a stylish way of merging your indoor and outdoor spaces.

French doors are for many reasons then both a sound home improvement and investment feature. It is important therefore for you to pick a professional, experienced company to help you with your home improvement project. Planet PVC is a proficient and skilled company that manufactures and installs residential doors, french doors, rockdoors, patio doors, aluminum sliding doors, windows and porches.

We can assist you with all aspects of the purchase of your French doors from the very first design requests to final installation. All of our products are available for viewing on our website at www.planetpvc.co.uk alongside any technical and security information you may require. All French doors in our collection are high quality and are made from the latest materials.

Materials and Design PVC French doors are made from fibre glass frames that surround two large glass panels. French doors made from fibre glass utilize a modern material yet retain the elegance of traditional French doors and can also be painted in various colours to suit individual tastes. The high specification material makes them much more durable to exterior climates and does not peel or swell. Security and Installation French doors are typically attached via four hinges that help to distribute the weight of the door when it is hung.

They are also fitted with hinge protectors that make it virtually impossible for thieves to prize the doors open. They come with locking handles on both the doors and are fitted with restrictor hinges which help to prevent damage to the doors. As standard all French doors are fitted with anti-lift pins preventing the door from being illegally lifted upwards in order to disengage the locks. At www.planetpvc.co.uk you can browse our collection of PVC doors, PVC, uPVC, PVCu windows, rockdoors, and conservatories and investigate colour schemes and glazing options that suit your personal needs, tastes and budget.

How to get my upvc door or window in just few days??

Source: Improve your home with Planet PVC French Doors

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Why you have to use conservatories @ home?

Okay, so the UK is not blessed with year round sunshine, but there are other reasons to add a conservatory to your house:
  • You will be increasing your home’s ‘footprint’ by enlarging one of your downstairs rooms.
  • You could, if you wanted to, treat the conservatory as a completely separate room.
  • Adding a conservatory is cheaper than moving home, yet it gives you a bigger home and increases the value of your house.
  • Natural sunlight is good for you, in fact, without it your body cannot make Vitamin D. This vitamin is essential for strong teeth and bones because, without it, your body cannot use the calcium in your food. So, in rainy old UK, when the children can’t always play out, you will be increasing the amount of sunlight and, therefore, vitamin D available to your children.
  • Don’t you just love the sound of rain pattering on glass when you’re all cozy and safe inside your home? Well, you’ll get plenty of that!
  • If you love entertaining, conservatories make amazing dining rooms. Sunny and bright during the daytime for lunch, glamorous or romantic in the evening, eating beneath the stars. - DIY Tips on Sunrooms Improvement via Conservatories
Given the current state of the housing market, there couldn’t be a better time to consider upgrading your home. Take the first step by looking at our wide range of conservatories now.

Source: What’s the Point of Conservatories in the Rainy Old UK?

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DIY Tips To Clean Conservatories

In order to keep your conservatory in tip top condition, you will need to clean it. Regular cleaning will reduce the need for maintenance as dirt and grime can cause discolouring and corrosion, making your conservatory a shodow of it’s former self.

Most conservatories are quite large and cleaning can be quite time consuming. Our advice would be to break the cleaning process down into smaller more manageable tasks, an example would be Job 1) clean glass, Job 2) clear guttering of debris , Job 3) clean framework etc. To break the jobs down further you can break them into inside and outside tasks.

Without a shadow of a doubt cleaning the outside of a conservatory is the most time consuming. The following cleaning procedures should be considered:

1. Removing plant material (leaves, twigs etc.) from gutters, this type of material can severely limit surface drainage, providing a moisture rich environment for moss and algae, and in severe cases if left unattended this can lead to panel and roofs moving.

2. Cleaning the roof. The roof of your conservatory takes a beating from the elements, rain, wind snow and ice can all carry small particles of dirt, which over time, build up reducing the light into you conservatory. This is also the perfect breeding ground for algae, this will give your conservatory an unattractive green coat, again reducing your light and over time affecting the structure.

3. Cleaning the glass. The window of your conservatory will become dirty just like the windows on the rest of your home and should be cleaned accordingly.

4. Cleaning the framework. Overtime the framework of your conservatory will pick up dirt and grim, and should be cleaned at regular intervals this will help to keep that gleaming “new” look.

INSIDE THE CONSERVATORY
5. The internal framework and glass in some environments is subject to much harsher conditions than the external. Many of the pollutants are much more concentrated when compared to those outside. If you live in a house where someone smokes your conservatory can be exposed to enormous amounts of smoke and nicotine. This when left over an extended period of
time can leave a unsightly yellow stain.

When cleaning your safety should be at the forefront of your mind. There is good chance you could be working at height. Make sure you use the correct equipment for the task in hand and do not attempt anything you are unsure of.

If you don’t have the correct equipment for the job, please don’t even attempt any of the tasks mentioned. There are many conservatory cleaning companies out there, who can provide a thorough and professional service.

To find your nearest supplier of PVC Conservatories why not visit: www.westyorkshirewindows.co.uk or www.planetsouthlakes.com


Source: Great Tips on How to Clean Your Pvc Conservatory

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Conservatory window: Glass Conservatory | Double Glazing Conservatories

Which Types of Glass is Energy Savings

Glass is comprises of mainly silica that is found from sand. Glass is used in various applications as doors, windows, conservatories, bottle, and vision glass.

These glasses when used in windows (double glazing window) can act as energy exchanger and can reduce the efficiency. To increase the efficiency of the room, the energy exchange should be measured either from window frames or glass.

Pilkington K glass has a special coating on the inner glass surfaces facing the air gap which reduce the energy emission to the outer glass.

A thin coating helps to reflect back the energy and maintains the internal temperature towards the colder outer atmosphere. This coating helps to reflect back the energy and also allows heat from sunlight to enter the house so keeping the residence warm. Thin coating on the inner glass sheet makes it at room temperature and provides larger usable space.

Pilkington K glass helps to maintain the internal room temperature with or without heating making it greener by energy saving to home so with Pilkington K glass you can achieve higher efficiency.

In colder atmosphere the window region is the coldest part of the house but with Pilkington K glass it is not the case. It can also be used in conservatories as it maintains the heat from sunlight and make the inner atmosphere pleasant.

Pilkington K glass can also be laminated or toughened to increase its strength and durability. Due to its energy efficiency it becomes the first choice for architects and also raises the energy ratings and saves on energy bills.


Resource: Glass ware: Glass Window, Pilkington K Glass, Double Glass Window

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DIY Window Replacement: Vinyl windows using the retrofit style

These days a lot of homeowners are replacing their old windows with vinyl windows using the retrofit style of window frame. This is particularly true in the west, and specifically, in California. The number one arguement that I have heard against using the retrofit method, is that it is susceptible to water leaks. Well, that’s true if you don’t do it properly. But, if you do a complete tearout of your old window down to the studs, you’re going to have water leak issues there as well if you don’t install the new window properly. So I think that arguement is, well, all wet. So, let me tell you the best way to install your retrofit windows that will ensure that water cannot get in.

There is an old song that goes, "It never rains in California, but girl don’t they warn ya, it pours, man it pours". For those of you in California, you know how true this is. While California doesn’t get a lot of annual rainfall, when it does rain, it can come down in buckets due to the close proximity to the ocean. So, you want to be sure that your windows are well sealed.

If you are installing retrofit frames against a stucco house, you want to put a thick bead of sealant right on the outside face of the old window frame, all the way around. Latex caulk should work fine, but if you want to spend a little more to get the best sealant available, use 100% silicone. Depending on the number of windows you will be doing, this extra cost can add up.

You pay approximately $1 for a tube of acrylic latex caulk, and $4 or more for a tube of 100% silicone. You are going to use 1-3 tubes per window, depending on the size. So you can see how it could add up. Here is a trick that I used to do to save a little money; The most vulnerable part of your installation is the top of the window, because gravity will have the water running down from the roof to the ground. It’s not likely that water is going to find it’s way through the sides or bottom.

So, I used to carry two caulking guns, and load one with the silicone, and the other with the acrylic caulk. I would run the silicone accross the top of the old frame, and caulk the sides and bottom. Then, put your new window into the opening and have a helper hold it firmly in place while you plumb and level it, then screw it into place.

After you have the window completely installed, your final step should be to caulk where the retrofit lip meets the stucco. Here again, I used to use white silicone on the top, and caulk on the sides and bottom. You now have a double barrier against water infiltration. After about a week, check the sealant around each window for signs of cracking. Because stucco is usually uneven, there could have been gaps that were larger in some areas than in others.

If you don’t force the caulk into the gap to completely fill it, the caulk can sag before drying, causing a crack to form. Simply recaulk over any cracks that you see. You can check the silicone on top as well, but because silicone dries like a rubber substance, you shouldn’t see any cracks there. OK, what if the replacement windows are going between wood trim surrounding the opening? If you are using the retrofit lip, and trimming it to fit between the wood, then you still apply the heavy bead to the old frame before installing the window. But, instead of sealing where the retrofit lip meets the stucco, you seal where it meets the wood. Then, you want to be sure to seal above the window, where the top piece of wood meets the stucco. Again, use silicone up there. Now, no water can run down the stucco wall and get under the top piece of wood.

Sometimes, though, you might decide not to use a retrofit style frame between the wood, choosing a block replacement frame instead. If you choose to do it this way, you have to add trim to the outside. You still want to apply the sealant to the old frame, then apply your trim so it contacts the new window as well as the sealant on the old frame. If you follow these procedures, you won’t have to worry about any water penetrating into your home, I don’t care how hard it pours!

John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows


Resource: Avoiding leaks when installing vinyl retrofit windows

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Window Installation: Double Glazing + Draft Proofing

The photograph here shows some double glazed sashes I have been working on for a property in Brighton.

I have glazed them with 14mm low-e sealed units. Thermal efficiency in windows is calculated as a U-value, with single-glazed windows having as value of around 5.6. Many different types of glazing unit are available each with its own U-value. As these sashes are to be installed into the original Victorian frames at the property, slim units (14mm) are used in this case. This reduces the U-value to around 3.0, and along with the draught-proofing system, will make a marked improvement to the drafty victorian sashes and offer some degree of sound insulation.

A couple of photos showing the parting-bead and staff-bead used to draft proof the windows.

Also, this week I was asked to replace some broken window glass and fit mirror film to the windows. I had not worked with this material before and had been warned it was a tricky job to do, here’s a picture of the finished job:

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Replacing Drascombe Cabin Windows on a Drifter

Replacing Drascombe cabin windows or Based on replacing windows on a Drifter by Steve Schlemmer

1. Parts required

1.1. New acrylic windows from Churchouse Boats
1.2. New fixings from Churchouse Boats
1.3. Clear silicone sealer
1.4. Scrap wood and bolt for the clamping fixture

2. Tools required

2.1. Electric drill, bits and countersink
2.2. flat and shaped scrapers
2.3. Stanley knife
2.4. File
2.5. G cramp
2.6. Screwdriver
2.7. 8mm socket

3. Fixture required

3.1. From scrap ply or board and 2x1 or similar make a clamping fixture (see photo) that can clamp the inner frame to the cabin side via vertical and horizontal legs cramped to the cabin locker below the window. Shape the ply or board to give access to all the fixings. To ease handling, attach the board to the vertical with string through the contact point; bolt the two legs together – this ensures that the fixture can be positioned with one hand. Make the fixture before removing the first frame.


4. The original windows were made of an aluminium alloy, secured with rivets. Later boats have bronze windows, secured by a variety of means. Mark the top of the inner and outer frames before removing them. Do the complete job on one side at a time – allow two and a half to three hours for each side.


5. Make sure you can work comfortably, as well as safely, inside and particularly outside the boat; you will be spending some time doing careful work that needs a steady base.


6. To remove the old windows, drill out the rivets. Do this from the outside using a drill bit of about 6mm. The aim is to remove the flange so that the remainder can be gently punched through & out. If the rivets are heavily corroded into the windows, they may need to be completely drilled out. In that event, use a drill bit which is a clearance diameter for your fixings.


7. The old alloy frames become brittle with age so very carefully lever the window frame off by hand moving along the window in short stages. If you simply pull one end off the window and keep pulling, the lever arm will become too great and the frame will snap. The only option then left is to fit new, bronze windows. Very nice but very expensive; available from Churchouse Boats.


8. Clean off all the old sealants from inside and outside the cabin and from both inner and outer frames. Allow up to two hours for cleaning. You must get all traces of old sealant off and degrease the frames and cabin side before proceeding further.

9. My Drifter cabin has a lining which stayed attached to the inside face of the cabin.

10. Work on the frames on a thick soft pad; the frames are slightly curved and might break under pressure on a flat surface. Cleaning the frames will leave sharp edges, break them with a file; drill through the frame holes to clear them out and break the edges of the fixing holes with a countersink.


11. Refitting the windows is a two person activity. One inside the cabin – one outside. Your inside helper needs to give you about 15 minutes of their time. You will be applying sealer only to the cabin and to the parts already on the cabin. The inner frame, acrylic and outer frame will have no sealer on them when you fit them, one at a time.


12. Make a dry run following the instructions below to make sure all parts fit with the necessary clearance and that all fixings pass through their holes and can be tightened. Particularly check that the acrylic is clear of all the fixings. Ease the edges locally, if required. This is easily done with coarse abrasive paper or fine file. If the fixings clip the edge of the acrylic as they are installed & tightened, the glazing will crack.


13. Apply a continuous bead of sealer to the inside of the cabin where the inner frame will sit. Using four bolts as a guide offer up the inner frame and clamp it in place with your fixture. Check that remaining fixings will pass through their holes.


14. Move outside and fill the gap between the inner frame and the cabin opening with sealer. Then apply a bead of sealer to the cabin where the acrylic will sit. Remove the temporary protection film from the inside face of the acrylic and lay the acrylic in place. It will stay put because of the angle of the cabin side and the tackiness of the sealant. Remove the outer protection film.


15. Apply continuous beads of sealer to the outside of the cabin where the outer frame will sit, around each fixing hole and on the mating face of the acrylic. Fit the outer frame and fixings, in diagonal opposite pairs and finger tighten. Remove the four guide fixings and replace from the outside.


16. When all fixings are in place, finally tweak them up. They need to be tight enough to squeeze the silicon and hold all secure.


17. Once all is set and cured, very carefully cut off any surplus silicon that has oozed out. A scalpel-sharp knife is a good tool, carefully used. Whatever other method you employ, do not, under any circumstances, use acetone to remove surpluses. It will instantly cause your new acrylic to turn opaque.

These instructions include some common information from Stewart Brown’s Churchouse Boats method

Steve Schlemmer
April 2005

Source: Replacing Cabin Windows by Steve Schlemmer

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